August 05, 2020 2 min read
Although the categories of these styles aren't written in stone, they are known to have been around for decades. These styles have a lot of variations, and the differences become blurred. So here are the differences between American, British, and Italian suit style.
American (Sack, Ivy League) suit style
American suit style was popular in the early 19th century. Brooks Brother and J. Press were the first tailors known for this style. This style rose to fame by Ivy Leaguers in the 1920s.
You can distinguish this style by these characteristics: higher armhole, straight lines, single went in the back, flap pockets, and natural (almost no padded) shoulders giving you softer silhouette. Moreover, the American suit styles were very baggy. These suits, looser cut, is rewarding if you have to spend countless hours in them.
British suit style
These suits, also known as British Traditional, are cut closer to the body. British suit style has narrower and well-defined shoulders with a higher armhole, two side vents for the coats, and can be either single or double-breasted. British cut jackets use lower gorge lines and the heavier cloth, lapel, thicker shoulder pads, stiffer chest canvas, and more structure to the jacket.
For trousers, they are cut generously with two or three pleats and a high waist. Unlike the American cut, British trousers have more shape. British suits also give you more contour, and you look more fitted. British suit styles are excellent for average built men since they are not too slim nor too boxy.
Italian suit style
So we’re done with American and British, let’s move on to our very own Italian suit styles. Known for its trendiness, these suits are cut very slimly with a sleek, modern, and stylish silhouette. Initially, the jackets did not have vents, but today, it’s common in Italian suits to have two vents. Compared to British and American jackets, the Italian’s are shorter and tight-fitting. Plus, the shoulders are padded, too, while buttons and lapel notches are positioned higher. Pockets are also flapless, and jackets have pronounced V-shaped.
Italians prefer to use lighter fabrics, too, as opposed to British style suits, as well as higher gorge lines, and less overall padding. For the pants, the Italian style has a tapered waist, and hips are snug to the body. Italian cut is a perfect fit for tall, slim, and flat belly men.
Today, it's rare to see the original American style while British and Italian style is still more popular. If you're more of a traditional person or you hold some significant position, opt for British cut. However, if you're younger and seek for a trendier look from your suits, the Italian cut suits better.
Whatever you choose, as long as the suit is cut well, it will suit you well, and you will feel comfortable in it.
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